Via Francigena: Siena to Serravalle

Friday 13 April. Not the 16+ miles of walking that the title implies! Distance walked therefore 3.4k.

We were out at a reasonable time, leaving our woefully heavy baggage to collect later, and stopping only for a quick breakfast, so hitting full sightseeing mode. Il Duomo was our target, and the crypt (where we had never been before, perhaps because it only opened to the public some time in the mid-2000s - after they discovered a whole new gallery with new frescos whose surviving portions are amazingly well preserved - see attached photo (not mine).

We'll post a fuller entry on the Duomo once our own pictures are available, but with the crypt, main body of the church and part of the museum under our belt, we returned to il campo for take-away pizza and pigeon-chasing, followed by baggage pick-up, and a tramp down to the impressive Porta Ovile to pick up a bus for points south. I'd forgotten how many levels Siena is built on, or maybe I never noticed till wandering around with 15kg of luggage on my back!

Being on the bus felt brilliant, as we whizzed by - both Katherine and I were very aware of the physical cost those miles would have exacted. As we were about to descend from the bus at Ponte d'Arbia, two things happened: Tim fell asleep, and it came on to rain. Following a cat nap and waterproofs both applied in a bus shelter, the rain lifted, and Timmy's spirits also when we found a playground.

Crossing the Arbia, we headed up for Serravalle. As usual for our afternoon's walking, and in view of the clouds above, we skipped the interesting-sounding-but-detouristic church at Serravalle, and left the Via Francigena per se to head up a steep 2k for our night's accommodation at Pieve da Sprenna, our pace accelerating with the rain. Pieve da Sprenna is a large agriturismo perched on a ridge, complete with boules court, swimming pool (not open, as the dead frog made fairly clear), wooded area and generally sense of a great summer refuge.

After a rest in our huge apartment - this was our one night of luxe - and yet more clothes-drying, we slipped out for a blissfully-backpack-free stroll, to make sure of the next day's route, and to enjoy the marvellous 360 degree views over the Arbia valley.

Returning to the Agriturismo, we were served the most enormous dinner - four courses, with terrific pasta, and excellent home-produced wine (a happy feature of our agriturismo stays). One of the tricky aspects to returning home will be knowing that we're no longer (even with Tim and Moray's running exploits) using up the calories to justify such impressive acts of indulgence at the table. And so, somewhat bloatily (Katherine says not her!), to sleep.

Via Francigena: Santa Colomba to Siena

Thursday 12 April. Distance 7.6k

Everything had dried out successfully overnight, and we headed hungrily for breakfast, which was in a marquee in the garden. Despite the sun it was chilly, and the gas heater was welcome. We packed rather slowly and unwillingly, and motivated ourselves for what we knew would at least be a short-ish day.

In bright sunshine (see picture) we set off, heading back down the hill to the main road, where we fell in for a while with some Francigenisti from Cremona. These were the first other way-walkers we had seen, and were very fit older folk, also heading for Siena that day.

Eventually we left the asphalted road, heading through woods for a landmark called La Piramide, where we had no idea what to expect, but which turned out to be an obelisk (see picture, not ours) celebrating the draining of the unhealthy local marshes.

I had vague memories of quite large portions of central Italy having been affected by malaria, and understandably therefore they undertook significant works to get rid of the marshes whose miasmal air they blamed for malaria. One of these is "il canale del Granduca", which begins just under la Piramide, a 2km long canal, drilled through a hill, which took the marsh waters away to a different watershed (see plan). Recently restored (and hydrologically tested!), you can I think walk through the whole, and Timmy and I explored the first 500m or so with our torches (pictures to come) - felt very adventurous, with the weight of rock pressing overhead and slippery underfoot.

You can if you have some Italian read more about the history of the canal at http://www.ladianasiena.it/luoghi.php?target=canale

On, then, from the canal, to a small unmade road, which seemed for unknown reason to warrant a bus service. Although we were pretty knackered, Moray had set the totally arbitrary goal of getting past the Siena ring road before succumbing to the bus. So we crossed from sublime crete Senesi to less sublime Sienese suburban concrete, where we waited for a bus to take us into the centre, and were relieved that no one asked us for a ticket or to validate our non-existent tickets.

We were staying at a lovely small hotel in the centre of Siena - really a large apartment on the 4th floor - where the hosts were kind and the beds comfortable, rested up for a couple of hours, and then Tim and Moray went to profit from the luxuries of the city, viz. delicious icecream, which the gelaterie stack in huge piles, each studded with representatives of its flavour. These we ate in il Campo, which must be about my favourite public space in Europe, because of the not-quite-uniformity of its northern edge, and because its vast size (must be 4 times the size of Trafalgar Square) means it never feels crowded. Tim chased the pigeons till he couldn't run any further, Katherine joined us, and we decided - with some protests from the peanut gallery - to take in the civic museum on the Campo.

Once in, though, Timmy was pretty into the Renaissance battle frescos, pointing out the means of death of every knight and foot-soldier in the victory of Siena over Frederick, and from there we kept him going with imaginary prizes for saint-spotting.

Then to find some dinner.Tim's cry was for pizza, and we were nothing loth as the Tuscan restaurant diet otherwise is rather meat-heavy, so we headed for Il Pomodorino, a pizzeria recommended by Italian TripAdvisor. Located near Santa Caterina (see picture), it turned out to have a totally stunning view of the main part of the city and il Duomo.

More importantly for Timmy it had great pizza, and a heater that was masquerading as a flamethrower. A good (and good value) meal, and a lovely walk back through the orange-lit streets, with another antiquity at every street corner.

Having decided to abandon the idea of a 16-mile day the next day given our tiredness and the dodgy weather forecast, and devote the morning to sightseeing, it was easy to set the alarm late and drift off to sleep.

Via Francigena: from Strove to Santa Colomba

Wednesday 11 April. Distance 17.1km

After dragging our aching bodies down to breakfast at the Albergo Casalta, which was excellent, we headed painfully downhill to the Co-op for supplies. After adding an extra 2kg each of lunch materials, we headed off into a somewhat subdued Tuscan countryside.

Via Castel Petraia, and into the woods, where it began to rain. For once it was out with the waterproofs before we got properly wet. We decided at Katherine's urging not to do an up-and-over at Monte Maggio on "la grande traversata", which isn't the Via Francigena anyway, but would have been a short cut. Luckily, as it turned out, because it was described to us later as "per essperti", "mal segnata" and "una bruta!"

So back to the road and into Abbadia Isola, so-called because it had once been an "island" in a marsh. We were fortunate to find the church open and the guardian (from Nigeria) in place, who spoke Ibo as well as Italian and English, and told us on such a foul day he would see few visitors.

We enjoyed the shelter of the Abbey, as it was now raining heavily, but we knew we had distance to make up, and so on we went, into a plain. It poured as we were crossing, but soon was raining so heavily we took shelter under a noticeboard which was designed only to protect the notice NOT weary travellers in thunder and sheet lightning. We soon carried on our way, watching the lightning flash and listening to the gap before the thunder - Katherine loved this, as did we all, although it was at this point that Moray realised his cagoul was no longer waterproof.

Soon little rivulets formed, and the unpaved road (sterrato) was awash. As we came to the hill below Monteriggioni, the road was so muddy as nearly to be impassable, and here emerged a navigational dispute (complete with dissolving map and multiple criss-crossing paths), and confusion reigned.

Happily the rain stopped long enough for us to enjoy lunch at a picnic table in view of the walls of Monteriggioni drifting in and out of the mist. We even saw glimpses of the sun.

After lunch, navigational chaos resumed, and after we had gone down numerous blind alleys, Timmy's suggestion proved right and we found the main branch of the Via Francigena leaving Monteriggioni. It was a matter of some regret not to visit Monteriggioni, even if only to find a bus or taxi.

This was definitely the low point of our trip because we were very wet and still very tired from the day before, and Timmy points out the grown-ups' pride was hurt by getting lost.

Although we continued tired, the weather and our moods lifted (see picture) as we headed up and then down into a valley, although this was somewhat dampened by the vast clods of mud we were picking up. We finally got off the fields and back to civilisation at la Chiocciola and la Villa, the first a castle in a refined French style (see picture), the latter (confusingly) an older style torre (see picture).

Here for once a bit of nifty navigation had us heading on the right path, coming out at Funghaia, then a "short cut" (as usual longer in time than the road section it replaced) an up-and-over through woods back down to the main road, then a long weary trudge up the hill along the main road and then into the outskirts of Santa Colomba.

We were struggling a bit by then, to be frank, and delighted to discover our B&B "Il Casale", where our monoglot host Paolo, who was extremely friendly and sported a red jewel in his left ear, welcomed us, albeit with the disappointing news that there was unlikely to be anywhere to eat within walking distance.

Getting to our room, which turned out to be called "Moon", we were greeted by the huge privilege of great warmth and multiple radiators, and the lesser privilege of walls floor-to-ceiling in aquamarine, plastic flowers laid romantically on the table, gauze-bagged, be-ribboned sweeties on every available surface, and a smiling plaster moon gazed lovingly down at the double bed from the wall. Tim was very pleased by all the sweeters, we by the radiators, and soon the room was festooned with the sweet scent of our clothes drying - not only the clothes we had been wearing, the maps by which we had been navigating and our packs, but everything paper we had, and everything that had been in our packs. All except Timmy's, whose "epic raincover" had protected everything.

Moray walked up the hill to see Santa Colomba, where he found an amazing 17th c. villa - vast (see picture), an ancient church (see picture), a closed taverna and a defunct tabaccheria. Returning to the family, we searched for all the food we had (which seemed to be the only dry things we had) and ate it. A little bread, a little jam, some fruit, cheese and ham, and a whole bag of pistachios and most of a bag of prunes. It was lucky we were all too tired to be very hungry, but still it was a surprisingly cheerful, happy supper, and we were soon all asleep, though Timmy reported nightmares (second consecutive day) the next day.

Via Francigena:San Gimignano to Strove

Tuesday, 10 April. Distance 21.5km

It was this day which made us realise we had been a tad optimistic about how far we could walk in a day with full packs - and by ensuring we went straight to sleep temporarily put paid to this blog. At 21.5k (c. 13 miles), it nearly did us in, making our projected 27k day later on look unachievable or at the least un-fun (more on this later).
After a slow breakfast at the Camping, we didn't get underway till shortly before 11am, on a fine morning but still pleasantly cool. It was a day of up-hill, down-dale, with a few fiume, imbotroni and other water features to cross, most on very-well-established stepping stone fords. We spent most of the day on unmade roads.
We soon started to pass collections of outbuildings apparently assembled from random mixtures of natural and unnatural materials (wood, corrugated iron, branches, sacking, plastic) which I initially assumed were dependencies of local poderi, but which we came by their ubiquity to realise were the rural holdings of people. Interestingly - even shockingly, particularly to Tim - they leave dogs "kenneled" in quite small runs - I think mostly hunting dogs. The dogs, unsurprisingly perhaps with relatively little human contact and nothing to do, set up a fierce barking whenever they sighted or winded us. We must have passed a dozen of these on this day alone. We hope they were fed and watered.
More happily, we met an old, lame shepherd, and his much more energetic dogs, driving a herd of goats down towards new pasture near a stream. We were taking a well-earned lunch break under a tree shortly beyond where the Via Francigena crossed the main road SW of Campiglia dei Foci, when the goats flew by, belling away, followed at a considerable distance by the shepherd.
It's still rather unclear to me how with energetic dogs doing their own thing, and him so far behind, he ever got them to go where he wanted, but with some zigs and zags, they were certainly all moving along. Perhaps the goats were doing most of the work.
We had some good-willed conversation, but our Italian was extremely stilted, and the old gentleman was missing some if not all of his teeth.
After lunch, the walking became hard - not because of the paths or landscapes, but seemingly the packs became heavier, our steps slower. We passed the Abbey of Santa Maria Assunta at Coneo, where we were accosted by two slightly sinister black-clad monks who seemed to wish we were German. I felt slightly guilty to be on the Via Francigena, and yet to bypass this ancient seat of pilgrim hospitality, but we were slow and it was late.
Our slowness increased after Gracciano dell'Elsa, where having descended past some impressive ruins of a huge mill (see photo) - a highlight of this day, as earlier we had passed an enormous "pig mill", the purpose of whose buildings and strange rusting equipment we tried to guess in passing - we took up our third significant "up-and-over" of the day.
By this time, it was getting late, and even Tim's cheery enthusiasm, manifested in chatter and singing, was waning. Seated on the bank of the mill leat, a restorative jam sandwich for him, and a Coke for Katherine and I, gave us the energy for the attempt, and we emerged at about 6pm into a slightly ghostly wood - ghostly because of the light quality which had become very flat, with the advent of gray clouds, and because of the remains of unknown buildings.
We emerged from the woods into a high plain streaked with white chalk roads, and knowing that Strove was now only a couple of km, we limped on under the threat of rain. Strove turned out to be a small Tuscan hill-town - dare I say typical, in that it turns the backs of its buildings to the outside world, but inside has piazze and crooked streets a-plenty - but we were not in a great state to notice its virtues, but quickly made our way to our destination, the Albergo Casalta which we reached shortly after 7pm.
This is a would-be classy joint, whose hostess perhaps looked a little askance at three weary muddy walkers - or at least two, for - as we've found throughout Italy (warning, as you could probably tell some serious generalisations coming) - a love of children among the Italians, coupled with Tim's charm and his few words of Italian, raised the temperature of the welcome a few degrees. The classiness did not extend to the room - ours at least - but certainly did extend to the dinner, which while a little pretentious was certainly of high quality, if slow enough that poor old Tim had to be carted off to bed after the primo piatto (delicious!) of home-made ravioli in a cream and basil sauce. So he missed both the secondo piatto of amazing Florentine beef and the dolce of (for me) chocolate mousse served with an excellent, sharp fruit jelly.
Then Katherine and I too fell into sleep, and woke not at all till our alarms shortly before 8am.

Last push to Strove

Tuesday, 10 April

Crossing the Borro Imbotroni

Via Francigena: Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano

Distance 14.6k

So after yesterday, and thanks to small windows and solid shutters, we slept for 11 hours. On opening them, the room was flooded with sunlight, and we leapt into our clothes and strode out.

We happened on an old man, who had lived here in his youth, and had built parts of the Via Francigena reconstruction around the millenium. He led us to the railings which like many hill towns bordered one side of the main piazza, and traced with a finger the route of the path, as if tracing it on a well-preserved fresco, complete with cypress, red roofs, and strange perspectival anomalies. We were delighted to see we could actually see San Gimignano, our destination for the day, about 13.5km away.

We stopped off at the local baker, and ate bread dripping with oil on the grass by the church, where I was loth to learn we will miss a concert next Saturday di branle mediaevale e rinascimentale in the local Romanesque 11th c. Chiesa, with an "apericena" at the local hostelry afterwards. Literally you could not find an evening I would like more. But we will be far away and transportless.

The walk itself was idyllic. Down through meadows, with lizards skittering by the sides of the track, and spring flowers. Then up and over to the next valley, whence at all points we had terrific views to San Gimignano (see photo). All this with sun and cool for perfect walking weather.

San Gimignano itself I love for its beautiful pair of main piazze, but it is so crowded and touristy it is hard to love too much. So a quick ice-cream at the authentic World Champion gelateria (where I had one icecream made with fresh mint, and another mixing rosemary and raspberry with divine results), and we were off through, making our way in the early evening warmth to Il Camping di boschetto di Piemma, where we have an ugly mobile home, nestled in the trees behind which hide that famous San Gimignano skyline (see photo, and squint a bit).

Via Francigena: Castelfiorentino to Gambassi Terme

Distance: c. 9k

Slightly unearthly feel to today. Mainly down to a 4.30 am start, well worth it as we found ourselves in the train station at Pisa by 10.30 Italian time. Pleasantly clunky trains took us eventually to Castelfiorentino, changing at Pisa Centrale and Empoli, the latter eventually providing a cheap and homely family restaurant open even on Easter lunchtime, which while in England seems to send every extended family running to the nearest pub, here everything but everything shuts, and behind the shutters you can hear the clink of cutlery and noisy family interaction.

So we found ourselves en route at 2.30pm, and a relief. Up hill all the way to Gambassi, and Timmy fading at the end - tomorrow's 13k should be fine, but we ramp up pretty quickly to 25k and not so sure that's going to work!

Very, very green - feels like sizeable rain recently. Alpine

Hotel = L'Albergo-Osteria da Pinchorbia modest mais convenable - good food, including carciofi fritti which immediately made it into Timmy's Imaginary Restaurant, which only serves the best dishes in the world. This brings the artichokes on a par with garlic bread!

Very much looking forward to tomorrow's more leisurely pace, and a breath around Gambassi with no packs!