Via Francigena: Gambassi Terme to San Gimignano

Distance 14.6k

So after yesterday, and thanks to small windows and solid shutters, we slept for 11 hours. On opening them, the room was flooded with sunlight, and we leapt into our clothes and strode out.

We happened on an old man, who had lived here in his youth, and had built parts of the Via Francigena reconstruction around the millenium. He led us to the railings which like many hill towns bordered one side of the main piazza, and traced with a finger the route of the path, as if tracing it on a well-preserved fresco, complete with cypress, red roofs, and strange perspectival anomalies. We were delighted to see we could actually see San Gimignano, our destination for the day, about 13.5km away.

We stopped off at the local baker, and ate bread dripping with oil on the grass by the church, where I was loth to learn we will miss a concert next Saturday di branle mediaevale e rinascimentale in the local Romanesque 11th c. Chiesa, with an "apericena" at the local hostelry afterwards. Literally you could not find an evening I would like more. But we will be far away and transportless.

The walk itself was idyllic. Down through meadows, with lizards skittering by the sides of the track, and spring flowers. Then up and over to the next valley, whence at all points we had terrific views to San Gimignano (see photo). All this with sun and cool for perfect walking weather.

San Gimignano itself I love for its beautiful pair of main piazze, but it is so crowded and touristy it is hard to love too much. So a quick ice-cream at the authentic World Champion gelateria (where I had one icecream made with fresh mint, and another mixing rosemary and raspberry with divine results), and we were off through, making our way in the early evening warmth to Il Camping di boschetto di Piemma, where we have an ugly mobile home, nestled in the trees behind which hide that famous San Gimignano skyline (see photo, and squint a bit).